Growing Tomatoes Upside Down?
An Alternative Garden Plan
By Kathi Morris

We've been growing our tomatoes upside-down for the past three years and
really have fun growing them this way! We also grow tomatoes in the ground,
and, by comparison, the ones in the upside-down buckets seem to have a little
better yield that the same varieties grown in the ground. I attribute it to
the fact that the branches have less stress while growing, and have better
air circulation.

Of course, you have to grow smaller varieties or ones that
are suited for container growing, or the yields will be less. We've
experimented with growing peppers and have found that sweet bells do not do
good because the branches break very easily. Varieties such as Cayenne,
Tabasco, or ones that produce small fruit, will grow fine.



You can grow tomatoes in any large container that has a sturdy hanging
system, but we've found the safest is to use five-gallon paint buckets that
have a handle. Planting them in the buckets is much easier and safer for the
plants when you have one or two other people helping you.

Instructions for PlantingStart out by drilling a hole in the bottom of the
bucket. Usually, there is already a circular indentation, which is approx. 2
?"

in diameter. If there isn't, drill the hole between 2 and 3 inches in
diameter. Set the bucket, right side up, on a structure such as two wooden
horses, so that the bottom hole is exposed.

Put whatever material you choose
to use to secure the seedling, in the bottom, then take the seedling and
gently thread the leaves and stems down through the hole so that it hangs out
of the bottom of the bucket. Hold the plant up till no more than 2 inches of
the stem is protruding out from the bottom.

While holding the plant in one hand, pack the material around the stem so
that the plant is anchored and will not slip through the hole. There are
several things that can be used to keep the seedling from "slipping out" of
the hole until the root system has developed and it can hold it's own. You
can use sphagnum moss, newspaper, coffee filters, etc.

Keep holding the plant in place, and add the soil into the bucket, making
sure it's distributed evenly up to the root ball. Gently let go of the plant,
letting it rest on the dirt, and add soil till the root ball is about 2
inches below the soil line. Add about 2 cups of compost, then fill the bucket
with soil up to about an inch from the top.

Carry the bucket to the structure you are going to hang it from, being very
careful to keep the tomato plant from hitting the ground as you walk. Hang
the bucket by the handle, then water thoroughly. Water should start running
out of the bottom hole within a few minutes.



Check the soil level of each bucket to be sure the soil didn't settle to more
than 2 inches from the top, adding more if it has. Water and add fertilizer,
when needed, directly in the top of the bucket. You can also grow "living
mulch" like parsley or other herbs, in the top portion of the dirt, but be
sure you water the bucket sufficiently so that the water gets to the tomato
plant's' roots.

Some herbs, such as oregano or marjoram, become too thick to
allow the water to penetrate quick enough into the soil.

Keeping a lid set on, but not tightly sealed, the tops of the buckets will
help prevent moisture loss, but can be a problem since they have to be moved
every time you water. Depending on what type of watering system you come up
with, will depend on whether or not the lids are used. We've always set the

lids on top of the structure, above the buckets (approx.

a foot above the
rim), and watered the buckets with a hose. The lids don't help much with the
moisture retention, but it does help deflect rain in the extremely rainy
season.

How much to water the buckets will depend on your climate. We live in
Missouri where it is very wet in the spring, and the sun is intense in
summer. We water the buckets every day from the third week of June until two
weeks before the first frost.

e interesting thing that will happen when you grow your tomato plants this
way is that they will grow upwards towards the sun until the plants get
bigger and bushier and start producing fruit. You have to check them daily to
be sure that the stem is growing out from under the bottom, not into it.

Every few weeks, check the soil level to be sure there has not been too much
loss. Add soil or compost each time the level lowers.
Text and ALL pictures are Copyright 2003 Kathi Morris.

About the author:
Kathi lives in the St. Louis area and is a member of the Bridgeton Historical
Commission. She is the sole proprietor of the Payne-Gentry medicinal herb
garden in Bridgeton, MO. and also volunteers for the St. Louis County Parks
by helping maintain the herb gardens at Faust Park.

She is a self-taught
herbalist and an avid heirloom gardener, a wife and new grandmother.