- May 22, 2006 at 2:22 pm #236653
Growing herbs for natural fabric dyes
Imagine the rich tones of the autumn woods. Or the bright hues of a spring
walk. Every flower and leaf is a little different from the next. If you want
to enjoy these beautiful hues year round, consider using herbal dyes to
color wool and cloth for your craft projects. Every plant will yield some
sort of dye. Different hues and colors are achieved by using blossoms,
leaves, stems and
roots alone or in combination.
Some of the colors made from plants are:
Black: black walnut and yarrow.
Blue: elder, indigo, woad.
Brown: burdock, fennel, onion, poplar.
Gold: goldenrod, safflower, sunflower (petals), yarrow.
Gray: sunflower (leaves), yarrow.
Green: foxglove, rosemary, yarrow.
Orange: Bloodroot, Golden Marguerite, sunflower.
Pink: Pokeweed, sorrel.
Purple: Geranium, lady’s bedstraw.
Red: Dandelion, potentilla, St. John’s wort.
Yellow: broom, goldenrod, sage, tansy, yarrow.
Home dying is labor intensive and it can be very messy. So, before
you invest your time, resources, and precious garden space in a full fledged
operation, try harvesting plants you already have growing or can find
easily. Marigolds and yarrow thrive almost everywhere. Rosemary is readily
warm climates while onions and their skins are available worldwide. If
you find dying becomes a favorite hobby you can begin cultivating herbs just
for your dyes and obtaining those you can’t grow from dye suppliers.
Before you beginning a dying project, make sure you have all your supplies
on hand. You will need:
1. Pots for dying, rinsing and washing. You’ll want to use stainless steel
or enamel pots and bigger is better when dying. You’re less apt to spill
dyes and it’s easier to wash and rinse your project in a larger pot.
Consider making a trip to a second hand store or rummage sale for dying
2. Measuring cups and spoons.
3. A thermometer that reads up to at least 215F.
4. Sticks or rods for stirring. Plastic won’t absorb the colors. If you use
wood, you’ll need to have a separate stirring rod for each color.
5. A kitchen or postal scale.
6. Rubber gloves. Since herbal dyes aren’t dangerous, you don’t have to wear
gloves but, if you don’t, your hands and especially your cuticles will
absorb the dye.
The next step is choosing a fiber to dye. Wool accepts natural dyes more
readily than any other fiber. Cotton is the second best choice. Linen is
best left for those with dying experience while synthetics
almost never yield satisfactory results.
You can use either yarn or cloth for your project but beginners may want to
try yarn first since it is easier to achieve consistent results. Make sure
your wool or cotton are natural and free of chemical sizing before you begin
dying. Clean the fibers by soaking them in a bath of soft water heated to
about 140 degrees. Mix six ounces of ammonia and three ounces of soft soap
every ten gallons of water and soak the fibers for at least an hour. Drain
off the water and squeeze out any excess and put the material in a second
bath mixed only with soap and heated to about 120 degrees. After another
hour rinse the material
well and set it somewhere to dry away from direct heat.
You will need to wet the wool or cotton before dying in a bath of warm
water. Add 1/3 ounce of washing soda per pound of material to the water to
help the material absorb the water. After soaking for about an hour remove
the material to a mordanting bath. Mordanting helps the material accept the
color and keeps it from fading during later cleaning. While a number of
including chrome and tin, can be used successfully for mordanting, the most
reliable and is alum, which can be found at most local pharmacies.
For every pound of wool or cotton mix four ounces of alum and one
once of cream of tartar with four gallons of water. You may find it
to mix the chemicals with a small amount of boiling water to help dissolve
them before mixing into the mordanting bath, which should be lukewarm.
The material is ready to dye when the mordanting bath is cool to the touch
but you can leave the material soaking overnight.
Now you’re ready to begin dying.
As a general rule you need about twice as many flower heads by weight
as you have yarn. So to dye one pound of wool, you will need two pounds of
flower heads. Harvest them when they have reached their peak of color but
before they begin to fade.
In a pan large enough for the wool to move freely, layer half the
flowers, the wool and the remaining flowers. Just cover with soft water and
bring the mixture very slowly to a boil over low heat. This should take
about an hour and you should continue simmering the dye bath for another
hour. Keep some
water simmering in another pot nearby to add to the dye bath if too much
To prevent shrinkage and felting, it’s important not to change the
temperature of the wool too quickly. So, you will need to rinse the wool
first in a pail of very hot water. Don’t stir or agitate the wool. Rather
push it around gently in the rinse water for a minute or two before
lifting it and repeating with a warm and them a cold rinse.
After the final rinse, gently squeeze the wool. It’s important not to wring
or twist it because you will leave more dye in some parts than others and
end up with striped material.
When you’ve removed as much water as possible, hang the material to
dry in a cool, shady place. Store your material out of direct sunlight until
you’re ready to use it.
As you experiment with herbal dyes, you will realize you may never achieve
exactly the same result twice. So it’s best to dye all the material
you need for a project in one batch.
If you’re a serious textile crafter, you will love the unique results you
achieve with herbal dyes. But don’t stop with craft projects. Herbal dyes
can give new life to older linens and things like handmade napkins.
Whatever you choose to dye, remember the unique character of your project
will be made all the more special by the one of a kind colors of an herbal
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