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  1. #1

    Question remodeling a bathroom after a leaky moldy shower pan on a budget....

    I have a question about remodeling our bathroom shower. It is a shower only, no tub and the shower pan was leaking. I removed the entire shower down to the cement slab and studs. I elected to remove the insulation incase their was mold growing on it, I honestly couldn't tell since it was either dirty, wet, or moldy. Now we have an empty shower without a ceiling and I am not sure which direction to go to replace it.
    I removed the ceiling since it was low so now our air goes into the attic, but I have rugs in front of the vent and under the door to stop the majority of energy loss. We looked at using Bathfitters, but their quote is about $3500, however it is a lifetime guarantee and they would not be gluing over moldy tile, and that includes them installing drywall after I replace the insulation.
    Then I thought maybe I should get a quote from re-bath, however they basically have the same product. I have searched extensively online and it seems consumers are either satisfied or they are not, greatly depending on if their installation went well.
    We also considered tile, however we just had our entire house redone with ceramic tile and engineered wood floors. The company we used did a poor job and we have had them out several times to fix boards that have come unglued or spacers that are showing under the grout. Basically, they said the type of grout they used did not need to be sealed, however, I CAN NOT seem to get our floor clean and I know the grout (made mostly of sand) is coming up and since it is colored brown, it is making our socks brown and our floors looking dirty. They said it was OUR responsibility to seal the grout, but I reminded them they told us the grout did not need to be sealed. Then they said it was not grout coming up, but dirt since I was only using a swiffer to clean the floors and it was not getting the grout clean.
    To make a long story short, I am hesitant to use tile for fear of another leaky shower pan or dealing with moldy grout in-between the tile.
    However, we need to do something. We are a family of 5 and we are blessed to have 2 bathrooms, one with a shower and tub, the other just a shower but we are down to all of us using the one bathroom for showering.
    I am a do-it-yourselfer if at all possible, after all, I was the one that completely demoed the old shower, but I am not sure how to proceed. And of course, we are financially struggling just like everyone else and trying to get out of debt and this would have to be charged.



  2. #2


    RE: : remodeling a bathroom after a leaky moldy shower pan on a budget.....can it be done?????

    My parents had this same issue. They had a huge walk-in shower. The ended up getting a bit smaller, prefab fiberglass shower (I think it was all one piece (3 sides, a bottom and a glass door) and added shelves and a laundry hamper on the other side - where the shower went to, before. The prefab shower they got from a place like Lower's or Home Depot.

  3. #3


    we have done it both ways bought a shower kit from Lowes for around 400 and installed it ourself works fine but its a little small for us and in our rental we bought a shower pan from the recycle store for 20.00 and then bought roofing tin for the wall and ceiling vented through the ceiling using an old fashion open clothes type vent total cost around 200.00 larger studier and easy to clean-

  4. #4


    Re: remodeling a bathroom after a leaky moldy shower pan on a budget

    we have also used an old phone booth in one of our rentals small but efficent--use your imagination bathrooms dont have to look like the old bathrooms

  5. #5
    Deal GURU Jane's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006


    I would tiles and then seal it myself. It's really not that hard to do, and MUCH cheaper.
    There are two main classifications of sealers: Membrane Forming, and Penetrating.

    Here's some help from OnlineTips
    There is a difference between sealing grout joints and sealing tiles themselves, and depending on the type of tile you're installing you should use one or the other.

    Glazed ceramic tiles only need to have the grout sealed. Sealing tile grout gives your tile surface greater water and mildew resistance, and is indispensiable for keep ing grout from getting dirty. Unsealed grout will absorb dirt, grease and grime such that it becomes impossible to clean.

    When you should you apply the sealer? For a new tile surface or re-grout, nearly all grout manufacturers advise that you wait at least 48 hours after grouting before applying sealers so the grout has time to finish setting. For maintanence of existing tilling, you should re-apply every year or two.

    1) Membrane Forming Sealers: These type sealers will resist water. They are mostly employed as grout colorants with added pigments to change the original color of the grout. Membrane sealers should only be used on unglazed tile because they will not adhere to glazed tiles. They generally stay on the grout's surface, forming a nonporous membrane with a glossy finish.

    In high moisture areas like a shower, water will find it's way to the tile/grout underlayment- using a membranous sealer makes it hard for the water to get back out and let the grout dry. This can be cause issues associated with prolonged water exposure, like rot, mold and mildew. So best to use this type sealer only with floors.

    2) Penetrating Sealers: Penetrating sealers soak into the microscopic voids of the grout. Typically made of silicone or latex solids suspended in a water or mineral spirits base, after application, the base evaporates, leaving the solid material within the grout. The material fills pores and capillaries close to the grout surface and in so doing, reduces the absorption of potentially staining compounds.

    Non-pigmented penetrating sealers don't produce a gloss on the surface, but can slightly darken the grout's natural color. Use a good quality penetrating sealer like Aquamix for baths or showers. After the sealer dries, the grout looks normal until water is comes into contact with it, and then the water will actually "bead up", as if it your grout had wax on it.

    A silicone, acrylic, or water-based grout sealer is applied to the joints. It's ok if you get some sealer on the tile surface providing the tile is glazed, but be sure you wipe it off before it dries, or it will be there for good. You need to remove any excess penetrating type sealer from the tile at once. It dries fairly quick, forming a haze on the tile that is about impossible to remove.

    For epoxy based grouts, sealing tile grout is not required, unless specifically stated in the manufacturers instructions that applying grout sealer is advised.

    For installing porous tile materials such as slate, terra cotta or marble, in order to keep them from staining with use you should seal the actual surface of the tiles. Applying tile sealer will also prevent moisture penetration. Sealing the tile prior to installing, with a top-coat or a pre-sealer, will prevent grout from getting into the tile pores and dulling or hazing the tile surface during grouting.

    Use of an acrylic top-coat on the tile surface will prolong your tiles lifespan, but you'll want to reseal the tile from time to time, about every two years, as it wears off eventually. You'll know when it's time when you start to notice your tiles getting harder and harder to keep clean. Do not mix brands and types of sealer; stick to the original sealant for re-application. Try not to use any ammonia-based cleaners on the tiles since it will strip off the sealer.

    For entry flooring and other high traffic areas consider an anti-slip coating for your tiles. There are anti-slip coatings now obtainable that are designed to decrease slip and fall incidents by raising the tiles slip coefficient of friction.

    Whether it is grout sealer, ceramic tile sealer or an anti-slip coating, always strictly follow manufacturer's instructions for the product's use so that you will get its full intended benefit.
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  6. #6
    Super Moderator MissDaisy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007


    Chlorine bleach is a powerful oxidizer that can remove stains in floor tile grout. But it can also remove color- I wouldn't use that to clean any grout on your tiles.

    We use OxyClean- it works great, but doesn't bleach out the tiles.

    he company we used did a poor job and we have had them out several times to fix boards that have come unglued or spacers that are showing under the grout.
    As for that, if you have an older house or a house that is not on a full foundation, it's pretty common for laminate (floating floors) to separate. It might not have anything to do with how it was installed and everything to do with your house shifting, etc.

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