Thread: MYO: Hobble Window Shade
03-12-2007, 08:05 AM #1
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
MYO: Hobble Window Shade
How to Make a Hobble Shade
Easy to sew and requiring only a minimal amount of fabric, this softly pleated Hobble Shade is a stationary window covering and can be made to cover all or just a portion of the window. For the look of a tailored valance, cover only the top third of your window. A second choice would be to cover just the top or bottom half, allowing a little of both privacy and light. If you choose, cover the entire window for a maximum amount of privacy and draft free insulation. Our simple hook and loop tape mounting method requires no mounting board, power tools or cumbersome bracket hardware.
Tips & Creative Alternatives:
Our shade shows the combination of a solid color and plaid decorator fabric. For an interesting alternative try two solid colors or a medium sized print for the center and a coordinating small print for the side strips.
When a lightweight flannel or quilt batting is placed between the fabric and lining, the shade will mimic a finely stitch quilt and take on the comforting properties of country decorating.
Before you shop, measure the window and determine the amount of fabric needed by reviewing Steps 1 through 7.
water soluble fabric marking pen
straight pins & scissors
yardstick & T square
sewing machine & iron
heavy duty stapler & staples
54" wide decorator fabric for body of shade
54" wide decorator fabric for trim of shade
54" wide drapery lining fabric
matching all purpose thread
1" wide hook & loop fastener tape, 1" shorter than the finished width of shade
Optional: Additional hook and loop tape for side edges of shade.
wood lathe strip or metal rod, 1" shorter than the finished width of shade
1. Measure Window
To determine the Finished Width of the shade, measure the window width from the center of each side molding. Note: For this style shade we recommend the Finished Width does not exceed the fabric width, usually about 50".
Decide upon the finished length of your shade. A valance will cover the top third of the window. A half-shade will cover only half and a full shade will cover the entire window to the sill. To determine the Finished Length of the shade, measure the window length from the center of the header molding to your decided length. Note: For this style shade we recommend the Finished Length measure at least 18".
Make a note of the Finished Length & Finished Width.
2. Determine Approximate Depth of Drop
The depth of each folded drop seen on the shade front will be determined according to the finished length of the shade. The drops typically measure from 8" to 12". Tall windows can accommodate wide drops and short windows require narrow drops. Choose the approximate depth of your drop from the chart below and make a note of it.
Finished Length of Shade (Step 1) 18" - 40" long = Approximate Drop Depth 8"
Finished Length of Shade (Step 1) 41" - 60" long = Approximate Drop Depth 10"
Finished Length of Shade (Step 1) 61" - & longer = Approximate Drop Depth 12" or more
3. Determine Number of Drops needed
The following calculations will give you the actual measurements you need. The numbers below each calculation are an example of how we calculated our photographed shade which had a measured Finished Length of 65".
Finished Length of Shade (Step 1) minus 2" = All Drops
65" - 2" = 63"
All Drops ? Approximate Drop Depth (Step 2) = Fractional Number of Drops
63" / 12" = 5.25 drops
4. Determine Actual Depth of Drop
Because you want all the drops to be equal in height, multiply the fraction by the drop length.
.25" X 12" = 3"
Either by eye or by using the calculation below, distribute those extra 3" evenly into each drop.
3" / 5 drops = .6 (or about 2/3 of an inch)
Each of our drops should measure approximately 12 2/3".
5. Add 3" for each pleat
Pleats are the folds hidden behind each drop and all will measure the same regardless of the drop depth or shade length. Add 3" for each pleat. A pleat is needed at the bottom of each drop.
3" pleat X 5 (number of drops) = 15"
6. Add 8" for all hem allowances
Add 2" for upper hem, 4" for lower hem and 2" for hem pocket.
7. Determine Cutting Lengths and Cutting Widths
Add together your calculations to determine the Cutting Length of the Shade.
All Drops (Step 3) 63" ( 12.6" X 5 drops )
All Pleats (Step 5) 15" ( 3" X 5 pleats )
+ All Hem Allowances (Step 6) + 8" 8"
Cutting Length of Shade 86" (For our photographed shade)
The Cutting Width of the Shade is the same as the measured Finished Width (Step 1).
The Cutting Length and Width of the Lining is the same as the shade.
The Cutting Width of the Contrast Trim Fabric is 8".
The Cutting Length of the Contrast Trim Fabric is the same as the shade. Our recommendation is to purchase a full Cutting Length of fabric and cut the two 8" wide strips following the lengthwise grain of fabric. If the strips are cut on the cross grain of the fabric, less fabric will need to be purchased but the short strips will need to be seamed together to achieve the full strip length.
Cut Shade, Lining and Trim following the dimensions above. Use a yardstick and a water soluble marker to measure the fabric. Use a T square to achieve perfect right angles.
8. Mark Hem, Drop and Pleat lines
On the wrong side of lining, measure and mark a line 2" from top edge for upper hem. Measure and mark a line 4" and 6" from bottom edge for lower hem and hem pocket. Beginning at the top marked line, measure and mark each drop and pleat in the calculated widths and number needed. Begin with your drop dimension and always add a 3" pleat below it. Keep all lines straight and parallel and between the upper and lower hem lines.
Measure and mark a parallel line halfway between each of the pleat lines. Differentiate this line from the others by drawing it as a dashed line.
9. Baste Shade
With wrong sides facing, and all edges even, place shade and lining fabric together, lying flat on large surface. Pin and machine baste together following 1/2" from all edges. Also pin and baste through both layers of fabric along the dashed lines.
10. Assemble Trim
Turn up and press a 2" hem to the wrong side of fabric on both long edges of trim. On one edge, (the edge intended for the outer edge of the shade) open out crease and tuck cut edge in to meet fold. Press a second fold in place creating a 1" double hem. On the other edge, (the edge intended for the inner edge of the shade) trim off 1 1/2" of fabric creating a 1/2" single hem.
11. Apply Trim
Open out the double fold of the trim hem. With the wrong side of the trim and lining side of the shade facing up, and cut edges even, pin the double creased edge of the trim to the long side edge of the shade. Stitch together along the first crease line (1" from the edge).
Refold the double hem so it wraps around the cut edge of the shade and the trim is flat on the right side of the shade. Tuck under the single hem on the inside of the trim and top stitch close to the fold through all layers. Press all layers flat. Tip: On the sewing machine, fill the bobbin with lining colored thread and the needle with trim colored thread to camouflage the stitching as much as possible.
12. Press and Stitch Hems
On the top edge of the shade, turn up and press a 2" hem to the lining side. Open out crease and tuck cut edge in to meet fold. Press a second fold in place creating a 1" double hem. Top stitch from one side edge to the other, through all layers along the inner crease.
Back stitch at each side edge to secure. Press flat.
On the bottom edge of the shade, turn up and press a 4" hem to the lining side. Open out crease and tuck cut edge in to meet fold. Press a second fold in place creating a 2" double hem. Top stitch from one side edge to the other through all layers along the inner crease. Back stitch at each side edge to secure. Press flat.
13. Stitch Pleats
Offered below are two methods of stitching the pleats in the shade. The first method is achieved by hand stitching and when complete shows no visible stitching on the right side of the shade. The second method is machine stitched and shows each pleat with a horizontal row of stitches when complete. Choose one of the following two choices. Begin with the uppermost pleat and repeat all of the step for each pleat in the shade.
Invisible Stitches: - With right sides facing, fold the shade crosswise along a basted and dashed pleat line. Once folded, the 2 previously marked pleat lines should line up on opposite sides of the shade. Pin the fold through all layers along the aligned pleat lines. With wrong side up, lay the shade flat on the table with the pleat headed toward the top of the shade. Double check to see if the shade is flat - it should pull a little on the pins. Working a secure blind stitch, stitch the fold of the pleat to the wrong side of the shade, catching only the lining and trim fabrics. Stitch securely but do not stitch through to the right side. Remove pins.
Visible Stitches: - With shade laying flat, working large hand basting stitches, baste through all layers of the shade along the line intended for the bottom of the first drop (or the top of the first pleat). With wrong sides facing, pinch the shade crosswise along this newly basted line and pin the fold. The dashed and basted line made in Step 8 will be visible 1 1/2" below the fold.
Push down the top of the shade and flip up the pinned fold. Working through both layers of the shade, pin along the basted and dashed pleat line made in Step 8. Stitch through all layers along the basting, removing pins as you approach them. Press fold down.
14. Mount Shade
Stitch or glue the soft side of the hook and loop tape to the wrong side of the shade along the upper hem. Staple the rough side of the tape to the header of the window frame. Placing additional tape down the side edges of the shade and frame is an option for added privacy or insulation.
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